April 2014 Rejuvenating flexible special

When spring comes we always see refreshing colorful clothing, why not prepare your skin to accommodate it and have a glowing, sexy & healthy look all together.

To achieve this I’ve prepared a flexible rejuvenating special just for you with two options to choose from:

April special option 1; 20% Off Microderm & Chemical treatment (reg. $200) plus get 15% off the regular price of one retailed product.

This option is for those of you who want to peel off (before it is too hot) your winter stressed and tiered skin for new energized, younger looking and feeling skin with customized chemical solutions. During this treatment I layer three different types of exfoliating methods: mechanical, enzyme and chemical which results in a more dramatic change but has a possible down time of up to 3 days. To read more about what it does and how it works go to my article “How to make our skin young”

April special option 2; Book any facial or microdermabrasion and get my new Mini Lift add on Free! (reg. $30) plus get 10% off regular price of one retailed product.

This option is for those who don’t want to have down time because their busy with business or personal plans but still want immediate visible result with much tighter, toned and firmer skin all over the face (including around eye areas with dramatic anti-puffiness effect), neck and décolleté. This Mini Lift renovated add on treatment comes from Europe – there are three formulation options that depends on your skin condition, your skin concerns and expectations. To read more about how it works and what it does click here  Mini Lift add on”.

My flexible April special gives you 2 amazing options to make your skin happy!

Treatment plan to control teenager and adult acne

The main steps in controlling breakouts are:
1. Gently exfoliate skin and increase cell turnover to regulate excessive dead cells shedding within hair follicles and prevent dead cells built up and get pore clogged. In case of teenager acne we are concerns about exfoliating and de-greasing effect (like glycolic acid and ets) and in a case of adults exfoliating and hydrating effect (like lactic acid and ets) together with speeding up cell turnover effect of retinoids (depends on skin sensitivity) and resorcinol.
2. Control sebum production (with ingredients like salicylic acid, cinnamon bark, astringent toner, licorice extract) for both teenager and adult acne with additional hydrating effect (like urea, glycerin, hyaluronic acid) for adult acne.
3. Control P. acne bacteria proliferation with ingredients like salicylic, azelaic, lactic, kojic acids, benzoyl peroxide, and tea tree oil. In a case of adult acne try to avoid too drying effect of alcohol of benzoyl peroxide.
4. Protect and hydrate the skin with appropriate moisturizer and UV rays’ protection. For the best result both teenager and adult acne should be treated professionally (in office) every two weeks till breakouts subsides, then treatments can be moved to every three weeks, then to four for maintenance. Treatments like Deep Pore, Oxygen or Medical facials, LED (Light Emitting Diod) , Microdermabrasion, Chemical peels with appropriate solutions will be beneficial to control breakouts.
Results are also dependent on appropriate home care. As such, facial cleansing and product application twice a day is crucial for result, but excessively washing oily skin is just as detrimental as not washing, causing skin to overproduce oil trying to protect skin from dehydrating, which leads to more potential for breakouts.
And the most important is to understand that your skin is not your enemy, it is as confused as you are. Try to understand, to help it and you will be surprised how it will respond wonderfully.

My Skin Resurfacing, 2013 Special

Hello, my Friend.

I am back with my Skin Resurfacing program to get you ready for coming Holidays season. Now that the sun is not as hot and aggressive the best treatment to start with is a Chemical Peel. This will shed those dead cells that our skin built up during the long and exhausting summer to obtain fresh new looking skin.

What can a chemical peel and microderm & chemical (for more aggressive peel with more dramatic result) treatment can do for you?

For some of you who never had chemical peels before it might seem forbidding, but it’s just an amazing blend of ingredients that helps your skin drop useless and unwanted dead cells and get a new healthy and glowing look.

It works on your skin problems and needs for any skin type from very sensitive to very resilient.

I have for you a wide variety of solutions from very light (with no downtime, but still stimulating skin resurfacing functions) to aggressive (3 days peeling for more dramatic results) professional treatments to correct and improve the following skin conditions:

·       Skin aging: fine lines, wrinkles, sagging and laxity, loss of elasticity, thinning of skin,   dryness and dehydration;
·       Hyperpigmentation: UV induced, hormonal or post-inflammatory pigmentation;
·       Acne/breakouts: blackheads, whiteheads, enlarge pores, papules and pustules with blemishes and scarring;
·       Sensitive skin: rosacea, impaired barrier function, psoriasis.

In the case of Microderm & Chemical treatment before applying chemical solution I exfoliate your skin with microdermabrasion crystals and enzymes first for deeper penetration of chemicals for remarkable results.

To read more about Microdermabrasion, Chemical peels or Enzyme exfoliations, please go to my website (keep our skin young)

The regular price for just the Chemical Peel starts at $100 that will depend on your skin condition and the number of layers of chemical peel and the areas of applied solution.

The regular price for a Microderm & Chemical treatment is $200.

Result of skin correction and improvement is accumulative and noticeable after very first peel.

My Skin Resurfacing, 2013 Special is:

20% off any Chemical Peel and or Microderm & Chemical treatment (a savings of up to $40) that includes soothing balm to be used as post peel product to help your skin return to baseline with visible improvement.

If you never had a chemical peel before, please book appt. for my consultation ($30 ) or get a free consultation by phone (469-744 4038), otherwise please book an appointment.

You can purchase a package of 5 regular price treatments and get the 6th treatment free.I am ready to make your skin looking and acting healthier, younger and happier.

Don’t miss this promotion! It starts today, September, 26 and ends October, 31.

Love you wish you all success.
Irina

Difference between teenager and adults acne.

Hormonal fluctuations are a key contributing factor to acne in all age groups.

Androgen hormones, including testosterone stimulate overproduction of oil secreted by sebaceous glands located in every hair follicle, leading to clogged pores and P-acne bacteria proliferation. To read “Acne, why and how it happens” click here.

Although androgen hormones are more dominant in men, women may experience also their acne-causing effects. As estrogen and progesterone levels fluctuate throughout the days, months and life, an imbalance of testosterone can take place, leading to more potential for breakouts.

During puberty (from age 9-14 in girls and 10-17 in boys) lots of biological and physical changes occurs together with changes to the skin. Because of its role that testosterone hormones have in the onset of acne, the condition is more severe in males during puberty. However it normally clears up or get much better by mid 20s and is not as reoccurring throughout life as in females.

About 45% of women suffer from menstrual cycle breakouts, because this 28 day process involves constant fluctuation of different hormones, which can improve or worsen the skin condition. During days 1 to7 of the cycle, estrogen hormone level increases clearing up the skin and during days 15-28 it begins to decline again which increase the potential of blemishes. In addition to a drop in estrogen, the progesterone level increases causing follicles to swell, compressing pores which in combination with the increased oil production create an ideal environment for acne.

Peri-menopause and menopause period begins when ovaries production of estrogen and progesterone slows down, while testosterone becomes more dominant, stimulating sebaceous glands produce more oil. In addition, surface hydration decreases with age (due to decreased surface lipids), trapping oil beneath the surface, this leads to a higher potential for breakouts. Menopause acne sufferers’ skin is considered water dry, not oily dry.

Another hormone cortisol (released in response to stress) stimulates sebum production and inflammation and thus contributing to severity of acne.

In summary even though acne pathology remains the same, adult acne is typically drier and similar to menopausal acne than teenager acne, due to decrease of surface lipids. To create an appropriate treatment plan both teenager and adult acne should seek advice from a professional

For my next article “Treatment plan to control teenager and adult acne”. (click here)

 

Acne, why and how it happens.

First of all, no matter what causing acne (hormones, genetics, stress, skin’s lipids abnormalities, faulty skin exfoliation and others) it is important to understand that acne is our body immune system respond. To understand it, I will explain on very simple model as to how and why it forms within the skin.

  1. Epidermis (top layer) of the skin mostly composed of dead cells (keratin filled). But those cells have not been dead for long. About every 5 days new cells are born in the lowest layer of epidermis and start their journey to the surface before they die, which takes about 28 to 40 days.
  2. Cells protect us by shifting from being water-filled to keratin filled giving the strength and integrity to the skin as they move up to surface. Ultimately, because of water loss these cells die and slough off in about a month.
  3.  Dead cell together with oil, secreted by oil glands (sebaceous gland, located in every hair follicle) create skin barrier from external (like bacteria, weather changes) and internal (like dehydration, temperature changes) factors.
  4. But occasionally, things go wrong. Sometimes the cells don’t effectively move up and out of the follicle shaft that the oil glands are attached to, resulting in clogs composed of sticky cells, oils and the like, which can go on and form a black head or a white head .
  5. If the clog gets large enough it block excess air to follicle. Without oxygen P-acne bacteria (which live in all skin) starts developing and multiply, while matter forming in the clog (dead cells and oil) is feeding the bacteria.
  6. Now since that bacterium is no longer under control, our defense mechanism is activated and rushes to fight the bacteria, resulting in papule, pustule or cyst. Histamine (defensive hormone) is released that causes swelling and consequent pain from pressure on nerve ending. Capillaries are dilated to allow immune cells to arrive quickly causing redness and heat. And last, the pus is formed as a sign of the end of the battle.

Picking at pimples can give you immediate satisfaction but the infection can get worse, spread and cause permanent scaring along with post-inflammatory hyper pigmentation (brow or red spots).

Excessive washing of oily skin on the other hand, can be as detrimental as not washing enough, as is the use of overly drying products. Under each circumstance, the skin gets dehydrated, causing it to overproduce oil as it tries to seal in whatever water remains, which can lead to more clogged pores.

At this point very important to understand that your skin is not your enemy, it is as confused as you are and needs the help. It is time to change your habits and to start working together with your skin, not against it. It is the time to get professional advice with an appropriate treatment plan in office and at home.

What we need to know to keep our skin young

My first advice in keeping your skin young is to exfoliate on a regular basis. Here are some basic principles of exfoliation.

First off, what is exfoliation?
It is a process of removing the top layer of the epidermis (dead cells) to improve the skin elasticity, texture and clarity. This helps correct many skin conditions like signs of aging that include fine lines and wrinkles and sagging. Also dehydration, acne, enlarged pores, rosacea, scaring and hyper-pigmentation, exema to name a few.

The purpose of professional exfoliating treatment is to create a controlled trauma to outer layers of the skin. Doing so will bring the skin from a resting state to a survival mode, and that will stimulate many beneficial skin functions like healing, rejuvenating, metabolic processes that will rid old cells and reveal healthier and younger looking skin.

All skin and condition will benefit from a suitable exfoliating method. The key is finding right one that increase skin benefits without over-exfoliating that could lead to chronic skin irritation and post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation.

Here are some top methods of exfoliation:

·         Mechanical exfoliating: dead cells are physically rubbed off the skin with the appropriate ingredients (do not use apricot scrub for the face) used in your scrub at home or a more aggressive but effective professional treatment like Microdermabrasion (more info about this, click here).

Chemical exfoliation: the application of a selection of chemical solutions to gently dissolve the  glue between the dead cells in your serums, weekly exfoliants and creams or a more aggressive but effective professional treatment like Chemical Peels (more info about this, click here).

Enzyme exfoliation: tend to be a gentler alternative with its digestive properties to dissolve the topmost layer of epidermis. Can be found in your everyday home care products or the more stimulating and effective professional treatments available with Enzyme action  (more info about this, click here).

·         Retinoids: are representatives of the vitamin A family, they are natural exfoliators that speed up cell turn over to help manage acne, discoloration and wrinkles.
There are two forms of retinoid: (1) non prescription like Retinol, Retinol palmitate, Retinol acetate and Retinoldehyde available in creams and serums. (2) Prescription only like Tretinoin (Rretin-A, Renova), Adapalene (Differin), Tazarotine are more effective but much more aggressive and can be the most irritating.

Any of the above methods are very beneficial for your skin by themselves and can boost each other in combination. During my organic paprika facial treatment or microdermabrasions, I am layering the mechanical with an enzyme exfoliation followed by organic AHA & BHA detoxifying and firming treatment (all from Eminence) that gives the best penetration and actions of the followings masks, serums and creams.

During chemical peels I am layering the mechanical (microdermabrasion) with an enzyme exfoliation (Enzyme peel) which is followed by a Chemical treatment from PCA, customized for individual clients needs to achieve the best result with long lasting effect.

 

Chemical peels

Chemical peel is skin resurfacing , typically characterized as the application of variety of chemical solutions to peel away the top layers of the skin and expose a smoother, even textured surface while stimulating repair and rejuvenating mechanism to produce new cells. They also reduce excess oils to minimize the occurrence of acne while controlling oil production and hydration. Stimulating cellular turnover, chemical peels are reducing appearance of hyper-pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. All these changes are manifested in more healthy, youthful looking skin.

The most common types of chemical peels are done with active ingredients as alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA) and trichloracetic acid (TCA).

AHA are water soluble acids derived from fruits, nuts, milks and sugars. Some representatives of AHA are glycolic acid (from sugars), lactic acid (from milk), citric acid (from citrus fruit and corn), malic acid (from apples and green grapes), mandelic acid ( from almonds) and tartaric acid (from cranberry and grapes). AHA break down the bonds between skin cells, which allow the easier exfoliation of dead surface cells, kind of loosening the “glue” that holds the skin cells together.

BHA are works the same as AHA but they are oil soluble and often penetrates much dipper. Salicylic acid is BHA derived from willow tree bark, wintergreen oil and sweet birch.

Chemical peels are often classified by how deeply they can penetrate the skin, and ultimately how much they wound the skin. The deeper the peel penetrates, the more the skin is wounded, and the greater down time and risk involved. While light chemical peels are performed by esthetician, medium and deep chemical peels should be performed by physician.

Light chemical peels are defined as superficial. These peels reach into the epidermis and only impact the top layers of the skin. Light chemical peels are usually having a concentration of less than 10% of BHA and TCA and less than 30% AHA. They are used to treat fine lines, wrinkles, acne and acne scars, uneven skin color (pigmentation) and dry or oily skin condition.

Medium chemical peels can be prone to more complications, they penetrates deeper and are used to treat deep wrinkles and scars and dermal pigmentation issues. Medium chemical peels are usually having a concentration of AHA between 30% and 70% and BHA and TCA between 10% and 35%.

Deep peels like Phenol are the most aggressive and used for the removal of precancerous grows, deep wrinkles and acne scars.

Any chemical peels should always be followed by appropriate anti-inflammatory daily care products to help to repair skin barrier and to prevent inflammation. It is very important to use pharmaceutical skin care products with SPF protection to protect the skin and to prevent developing the postinflamatory hyper-pigmentation .

In my practice I work with PCA chemical peels that are a safe blend of active ingredients such as AHA,BHA, TCA together with retinoids, antioxidants and poliphenols incorporated into the complicated formulas to flood the skin with these beneficial actives during treatment. To get the best result I create customized chemical peels program for every client depends on client skin type, conditions and concerns.